These pairs of Patek Philippe watches are wonderfully matched in style and performance.
Patek Philippe is a watchmaker that creates timepieces for all of its clients equally regardless of gender, often using similar techniques or traditional crafts practised in Geneva in the past. But its creations are never identical or shrunk-down versions of men’s timepieces for its ladies. We take a look at some of the best pairs of timepieces from the watchmaker to see how they add a twist with matching models.
The World Timers
Patek Philippe’s world time watches are renowned, world-first versions of Louis Cottier’s movement and design dating back to 1937’s Ref. 515 HU. Ever since, the complication has been beloved by collectors. The Ref. 7130 was introduced in 2011, the first ladies’ world time watch from the watchmaker. It was particularly outstanding for its unique basket-weave patterned guilloché dial radiating from the centre of the watch, with faceted triangular indexes that point outwards and give the impression of a dial that reaches outwards.
The Ref. 7130’s stunning dial led to Patek Philippe introducing a similarly-designed Ref. 5930P-001 for collectors who sought two of its highly lauded complications – the world timer and chronograph – in one watch. The 39.5mm sized platinum watch houses a circular barleycorn guilloché pattern with rectangular indexes and a single 30-minute totaliser counter on the dial, around which the world time complication is presented. The angular details of the dial and lugs give the watch a stronger presence, compared with the subtle and gentle curves on the Ref. 7130. While the Ref. 7130 uses Patek Philippe’s self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement, the Ref. 5930P-001 is driven by the Caliber 28-520 HU flyback chronograph movement with the world time complication added to it.
Sports Chic
When it comes to the luxury sports watch, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is probably the most coveted in the world. When the Ref. 5711 was discontinued, it was a shock to many collectors. Patek Philippe has since released its successor, the Ref. 5811/1G in 2022. But it’s not just the classic Nautilus that collectors have pursued.
The Ladies Automatic Nautilus Ref. 7118 in stainless steel and rose gold have been popular since its release in 2017. With a larger case size at 35.2mm compared with the quartz model at 32mm and equipped with the Caliber 324 S C (that also features in the Twenty~4 Automatic), the two references are clearly similar, but with subtle differences. Apart from the case sizes, the indexes are gently curved in the smaller, diamond-set model, with a wavy embossed pattern on the dial, rather than horizontal grooves in the 41mm Ref. 5811.
Evergreen Classics
If there’s one watch that stands as the definitive model that guides Patek Philippe’s designs in the last century, it would be the Ref. 96 Calatrava. The Ref. 5227R, released in 2013, is truly a worthy successor to the Ref. 96. It bears a classic officer’s closed caseback with a sapphire crystal through which the Caliber 26-330 can be seen. The design of the watch with its slim, unembellished mirror-polished bezel, gently curved lugs, and pristine ivory-coloured lacquered dial, is simply breathtaking and mesmerising.
The angled, triangular hour indexes point inwards facing the faceted hands of the watch, the reverse of the Ladies Calatrava Ref. 4997, which is just as stunning with a row of diamonds set on the slim bezel of the watch. The dial, unlike the Ref. 5227, features an embossed design with concentric waves that are further coated with a translucent lacquer to create a stunning visual display. The maximalist beauty of this watch might be the opposite of the minimalist presence of the Ref. 5227, but that’s what makes these two watches complementary opposites, borne out of the same design principles.
Sounding Out
Of the many complications that Patek Philippe is known for, one that holds an important place in the Stern family is the minute repeater. Along with the alarm complication, it’s a favourite of both Mr. Philippe and Thierry Stern. It was the former who led the development of Patek Philippe’s self-winding minute repeater Caliber R 27 back in 1989, and the latter has amplified its presence, using it with a number of different complications in new models. The Caliber R 27 is incredible for the quality of its sound reproduction as well as its slim profile, at just 5.05mm thick with a micro-rotor that can be seen opposite the flying governor of the minute repeater, hammers, and cathedral gongs that offer a richer sound.
Two watches that feature this stunning movement and complication are the Refs. 5178G and 7040/250G. Both feature flinqué enamelling, a technique practiced by only a handful of watch maisons today. It combines guilloché à main with a rose engine to create a swirling pattern on a white gold dial, before being coated with layers of translucent enamel in the Ref. 5178G and transparent enamel in the Ref. 7040/250G. The latter has two rows of diamonds totalling 168 in all, in a FlammeⓇ setting that further enhances this timepiece. On the left of each watch is a slider that controls the repeater function; slide it fully to enjoy the melodious chimes that indicate the current time while enjoying the beauty of the dial or the movement through the caseback; it’s a symphony for the ears and the eyes.
For those who share a love of timepieces, rare handcrafts or fine complications, these paired timepieces show there’s a watch for every personality and style.
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