The recent Watches and Wonders Geneva saw a record 54 brands reveal their latest horological innovations.
The highly anticipated event catered to the press and retailers from April 9 to 12, while the public had the opportunity to immerse themselves in the city’s largest luxury timepiece haven from April 13 to 15. Blending tradition with cutting-edge design, the world’s leading watchmakers and trailblazing independents showcased their finest and most exquisite creations for the year.
In this two-part roundup, we spotlight the pinnacle of horological innovation and artistry, while unveiling the trends that are set to shape the future of watchmaking. This year’s highlights include ground-breaking advances in material engineering, evocative designs that push aesthetic boundaries, and mechanical ingenuity that continues to challenge and redefine the very concept of timekeeping.
Bell & Ross BR 05 Ceramic
For the first time, the Parisian manufacture adds a new dimension to its popular BR 05 collection with the introduction of ceramic – a material synonymous with strength and high scratch resistance.
Integral in demanding fields like aeronautics thanks to its exceptional properties, ceramic is also a mainstay in the watchmaking world for its remarkable hardness, which is second only to the diamond. Completely stainless, it is lighter than steel and, through a meticulous sintering process, achieves its incredible toughness, hypoallergenic comfort, and a pleasant soft-to-the-touch feel. The black ceramic used in the BR 05 Ceramic collection offers a sleek, modern aesthetic that complements the watch’s distinctive design, which is reminiscent of aircraft cockpit panels.
Retaining the BR 05 range’s hallmark rounded square case design, the new black ceramic collection is offered in three distinct models, one of which is the BR 05 Ceramic. This three-hand polished satin finish timepiece boasts a shiny black sunburst dial with rhodium-plated skeletonised hands accented with white luminescent material. Its sapphire crystal caseback reveals the black ruthenium finish of the BR 05 Ceramic’s BR-CAL.321 calibre, an automatic mechanical movement with a 54-hour power reserve. While the watch is offered in a version with a rubber strap, the variant with a matching black ceramic bracelet exemplifies Bell & Ross’ pioneering spirit as this is the first time that it has mastered a case/bracelet integration with ceramic.
Understanding that black can visually minimise size, the Creative Director and co-founder of Bell & Ross, Bruno Belam, chose to increase the watch dimensions slightly, resulting in the very first BR 05 Auto model in a 41mm size. This subtle update compensates for the optical effect, while ensures that the timepiece is still imbued with its commanding presence and power.
Cartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time
The French maison continues the journey of pushing boundaries and challenging perceptions of time with the bold Santos de Cartier Dual Time watch. Paying homage to the legacy of pioneering Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont and his feats of conquering distance, the watch allows the wearer to track two different time zones simultaneously with ease.
Boasting a large case size of 40.2mm by 47.5mm, the steel model features a mechanical movement with automatic winding. Featuring tapered, ergonomic lines and meticulous attention to detail, it exudes a rugged elegance with rhodium-finished luminescent hands, a distinctive seven-sided crown, and a grey counter at 6 o’clock displaying a second adjustable time zone.
Practicality meets luxury with the watch’s interchangeable bracelet options, available in steel or leather, thanks to Cartier‘s patented QuickSwitch system. Meanwhile, a SmartLink size adjustment system ensures a perfect fit every time as it enables the wearer to effortlessly adjust the watch to the nearest link without the need for tools.
Chopard Happy Sport
Featuring the signature display of diamonds that dance freely within the dial as the wearer moves, Chopard’s Happy Sport has been a symbol of empowerment and confidence for the modern woman since its launch in 1993. Evolving with each season, the collection has been reinvented continuously with a vibrant array of colours, embodying a fun-loving spirit and joie de vivre.
Framed by a diamond-paved bezel, the latest limited series of 250 pieces is enhanced by an enchanting ballet of diamonds and the latest addition to the choreography: aquamarines. The new stone’s blue shade dictates the colour theme of the watch, beautifully complementing the silver-toned, guilloché-patterned dial. Reflecting a carefree spirit, the colour is thoughtfully echoed in the gem-set crown, while the fresh hue extends to the glossy alligator leather strap to infuse the timepiece with a joyful touch.
This timepiece is meticulously crafted, respecting the golden ratio to achieve perfect harmony in its 33mm case made from Chopard’s proprietary Lucent Steel. Driving the new iteration is the Chopard 09.01-C self-winding movement with a 42-hour power reserve.
In line with Chopard‘s commitment to sustainable luxury, the Happy Sport case is crafted from Lucent Steel, an alloy made from at least 80% recycled material. This responsible choice enhances the brilliance and durability of the timepiece, while reflecting the maison’s dedication to ethical craftsmanship. Since 2023, Chopard has exclusively utilised Lucent Steel for all its steel timepieces, reinforcing its commitment to environmental responsibility.
Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGC275
To celebrate two decades of the first Grand Seiko watch powered by the 9R Spring Drive movement series, the Grand Seiko Sport Collection welcomes a new Spring Drive Chronograph GMT. Drawing inspiration from the vast Hotaka mountain range in the Shinshu region of central Japan – where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive creations are assembled – this timepiece captures the ephemeral beauty of the soaring landscape during summer mornings with its unique colour-changing dial. Using Optical Multilayer Coating, a patented dial-coating process using physical vapour deposition or PVD, the dial colours shift magically from pink to orange and red when viewed from various angles, mimicking the enchanting play of sunlight across the mountains.
Encased in a 44.5mm high-intensity titanium case, the lightweight and robust watch with a 200m water resistance is ready to face any sporting challenge. The model’s commanding design takes cues from the lion, the symbol of Grand Seiko since 1960, embodying strength and an indomitable spirit. The majestic big cat’s mane is expressed in details of the new watch, such as the powerful case angles and the claw-like, hairline-finished lugs, which provide a great contrast to the Zaratsu-polished surfaces.
At its core, the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96 offers outstanding precision, achieving an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month – a notable improvement over its predecessor, the 9R86. Enhanced with glowing green Lumibrite on the hands and indexes, and blue luminescent GMT hand and bezel numbers, the watch promises unrivalled legibility. Only 700 pieces of this extraordinary model will be released in July 2024.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton
A horological masterpiece that speaks to the soul of innovation and minimalist beauty, this bold timepiece boasts a one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring that is masterfully skeletonised to give the illusion of suspension within the Streamliner’s 40mm case.
Following H. Moser & Cie.’s first foray into the skeleton watch domain with the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton in 2022, this latest reference continues to define the maison’s unique aesthetic. Its exquisite transparency reveals the inner workings of the watch mechanism, including the openworked rotor and hollowed barrel. The attention to symmetry and minimalist finishes, such as anthracite main plates and drawn strokes on the bridges, further accentuate the watch’s contemporary appeal.
Housed in a steel cushion case that’s water-resistant to 120 metres, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton‘s design maintains a focus on symmetry and balance. Flaunting organic forms and fluid lines, its integrated bracelet hugs the curves of the wrist beautifully, while gold-plated indices and hands with Globolight inserts ensure optimal readability in any lighting condition.
Powering this timepiece is the spectacular HMC 814 skeleton movement with a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie’s sister company Precision Engineering AG, this innovative design enhances accuracy and isochronism.
Discover more brands and collections at Cortina Watch boutiques, or online.
