Craftsmanship of Watch Straps: Leather, Metal – and the Artisanal Beyond

In the world of horology, the strap of a fine watch represents artistry, functionality and rich heritage.

Watches come in various designs – and so do their straps. Each one highlights a specific style, whether active, modern, traditional, vintage, casual or sporty. Just as clothes help play up a person’s attitude, the strap defines the personality of a timepiece too.

For example, a leather strap may add a more fashionable feel to a watch. There are also metal bracelets, which can bring to mind an intrepid yet timeless spirit.

Not forgetting, the less-than-conventional materials like ceramic, rubber and nylon, which can offer different practicalities to a timepiece and its functions.

Montblanc, Breitling and Bell & Ross carry a wide range of straps for their watches. These allow wearers to present a specific version of themselves to the world.

A love for leather

Montblanc is known for its watches, but it also has a long history of crafting fine leather goods. So, it is not at all surprising to see how the brand’s watches look best when paired with an elegant leather strap.

There is the Meisterstuck for example, named after the iconic Montblanc fountain pen.

To celebrate 100 years of the Meisterstuck writing instrument, Montblanc introduced a limited edition Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph. This timepiece comes in a stainless steel case with a black calf leather strap with alligator print.

Likewise, the Heritage watches combine Montblanc’s modern watchmaking techniques, luxury leather craftsmanship, and meticulous attention to detail.

While adhering to modern aesthetics, the watches in this range still look demure yet stylish. You’ll find a range of options, from sporty everyday models and elegant dress watches to highly limited high-horology pieces.

Down-low looking pretty fly

One common misconception is that pilot and dive watches will look out of place in a more formal setting. Well, Breitling has proven that thought wrong.

The brand’s aviation and water resistant watches are certainly marvellous creations, but what makes them even more special is that such designs can look sufficiently formal.

The Breitling Navitimer is among the most recognisable pilot watches in the world, and this year’s releases come in cream, black, dark blue, light blue, and emerald green colours – all beautifully paired with a leather strap.

Breitling is known to have used vegetable-tanned leather straps as well, highlighting the versatility and sustainable aspects of this classic material.

Steel yourself for a bracing look

Metal bracelets will forever remain as a smart choice for those who need durability when it comes to their watches. Whether steel or titanium, the material can endure all types of climates.

To enable them to withstand the forces of traction and torsion – to which they will be subjected on a daily basis, Breitling has developed highly specific production methods and technologies.

The various types of links are sawn, drilled and profile-turned using computerised numerically controlled machines. They are then patiently hand-polished, before being hand-assembled and then polished again.

The links and pins are fusion-welded (without adding any material) at a temperature of 3400°C, thus guaranteeing exceptional durability.

Aside from the matter of function, a metal bracelet can also bring vintage models into the 21st century.

Case in point: the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel & Gold. This 2024 release features a case inspired by fighter jet instrument panels, a nod to sports watches of the past, circa the 1970s.

The integrated bracelet, crafted from rose gold and steel, effectively gives the watch a more modern and stylish look.

According to Bell & Ross, watches made from a combination of gold and steel, including their metal bracelets, were very popular in the 70s.

So, you can say this model straddles both contemporary design and retro appeal.

A love for the alternative

Although leather and metal are favoured, watchmakers have also turned to innovative materials to fashion beautifully durable straps.

The new Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic collection stands out for – like the name suggests – the use of ceramic.

There is the BR 05 Black Ceramic and BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic, both catching attention with a combination of satin-finishing and polishing. The BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic however, carries a matte surface – achieved through sandblasted ceramic.

The first two models mentioned also come with a black rubber strap, which is another alternative material for watch straps.

For Montblanc, among the choice materials is nylon –  seen in the form of the recognisable NATO straps.

NATO straps were introduced by the British ministry of defence in 1973 as a lightweight, waterproof and durable option. It is simply a single piece of nylon strip that slips between the watch dial’s lugs, under the caseback and, doubling back on itself to be secured by a buckle closure.

Both ceramic, rubber and nylon straps underscore the very benefit of unconventional materials: they offer options for different preferences.

Form and function

The choice of a watch strap very much dictates functionality – or rather, the lifestyle of its wearer.

For everyday wear, a material such as metal or ceramic will be a good pick as it is the most durable. If it is a dress watch, leather would probably work best to give the timepiece a more chic look.

Then, there are materials such as rubber and nylon that are waterproof, so they work best for sporty watches.

In the modern watchmaking world, straps are often interchangeable as well. Certain models come with more than one set, and can be easily swapped to match specific activities.

Again, the choice of material in watch strap craftsmanship is pivotal, serving both aesthetic and functional purposes.

Innovation in strap materials has opened up a whole new world of watchmaking diversity.

Whether it is Montblanc, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern technology using leather straps; Breitling offering robust metal bracelets that cater to the needs of aviators and divers; or Bell & Ross’ use of ceramic to emphasise functionality and ruggedness – watch straps definitely matter.

Then again, never forget to keep your watches in peak condition.

Cortina Watch offers expert maintenance services that preserve the integrity and functionality of your timepiece – just what you need to keep your treasured timepiece in perfect working order.

Discover more brands and collections at Cortina Watch boutiques, or online.