Informed By The Past, The Future Of Bell & Ross Is Bright

While it continues to draw inspiration from aeronautical sources, Bell & Ross is also making a play for innovative watches that push the boundaries.

A brand synonymous with aviation- and military-inspired watches, Bell & Ross stands as a beacon in the landscape of luxury watches. Guided by a main tenet of legibility, functionality, reliability and precision, Bell & Ross strives to create timepieces that are not only aesthetically and conceptually distinctive, having been influenced by historical creations and professional demands, they are also purposeful and elegant.

From the initial moment a wearer sets eyes on a Bell & Ross timepiece, the unique qualities begin to manifest, communicating the provocative story behind its creation. Novelties are designed to intrigue, with ground-breaking features that leave a lasting impression. They span the universes of Pilot, Diver, Urban and Racer, with a collection of purpose-driven styles: Instruments, Urban, Vintage, Concept and Haute Horlogerie.

Prime examples include the BR 03 Diver Full Ceramic that juxtaposes a luminescent dial with a black ceramic case; the BR-X5 Green Lum that redraws the boundaries of watchmaking thanks to a luminescent case made of a composite material exclusive to the brand; and the BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel & Gold is a sculptural piece that binds contrasting materials to unrivalled cohesion. Their introduction speaks firmly of Bell & Ross’ steadfast commitment to functionality and design.

From the classroom to the manufacture

The name Bell & Ross was drawn from the surnames of founding duo and lifelong friends, Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo. It began as a special project in 1992 between industrial design graduate Belamich and the entrepreneurial Rosillo. Their fascination with aviation and military formed the basis of the brand’s unmistakable design identity from which they have never strayed. The essential must not compromise the superfluous.

Their initial objective to craft functional, reliable and pertinent utilitarian watches for pilots and divers led them to seek collaborative opportunities by gathering the experts in their respective fields and tapping into their collective know-how. Expertise and experience were distilled from professional users, designers, engineers and master watchmakers, ultimately to create watches that transcend expectations.

Early triumphs set the tone

Two years after its founding, Bell & Ross presented the Space 1, a homage to the first automatic chronometer worn in outer space. In 1997, Bell & Ross smashed the world record with the Hydro Challenger, a diving watch that took the ocean depth of 11,110 metres.

An understated but integral ally of elite users. Astronauts, pilots, bomb disposal experts and divers are known to prefer the brand, Bell & Ross readily meets their requirements with a wide range of specialised watches and commemorative editions. For years, it has been supplying watches that are both symbolic and functional, and meet the specific demands of the French Air and Space Force pilots and the Patrouille de France acrobatic unit.

For instance, the Type Démineur courtesy of the anti-magnetic case is safe to be worn during mine-clearing operations. Thanks to the chronometer certification and notched bidirectional rotating bezel, the Pilot Type Aéronavale is ideal for combat pilots. With several functions including two time zones, perpetual date, alarm and chronograph, the BR 03 Type Aviation comfortably satisfies the exacting requirements of French fighter pilots. What’s more, the celebratory BR 03-92 Patrouille de France was announced in 2023 to mark the 70th anniversary of the elite squadron.

Bell & Ross has also been supporting the Tara Ocean Foundation in raising public awareness in marine conservation. The entire crew of Tara rely upon Bell & Ross’ Diver watches in their global expeditions aboard the Tara schooner.

The iconic BR 01 takes shape

The brand’s expansive repertoire pays tribute to the timekeeping devices used in the military, on land, sea or in the air. Designs often evoke the nostalgia of pocket watches used in World War I, flight instruments of World War II and instrument panels seen in the 1960s.

Aeronautical instruments, especially, remain a primary source of inspiration for the brand to this day. The irrepressible desire to bring the vintage cockpit instrument ubiquitous in past military planes to the wrist gave rise to the BR 01 collection, which debuted in 2005, highlighting a prominent circle within a square form while combining military-grade functionality that has become a signature of Bell & Ross. The now-iconic shape impregnated with four screws and rounded edges was enriched with four oversized Arabic numerals, large hour and minute hands, and eight indices upon a round dial to ensure uncompromised legibility.

Not one to rest on its laurels, the brand has embraced risk taking in expanding its periphery. Since 2002, Bell & Ross has called the La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland its spiritual home, where master watchmakers are entrusted to conceive, assemble and fine-tune every timepiece. This process allows the brand to strictly preside over quality control despite the ever-increasing popularity among collectors.

Bell & Ross’ impressive breadth of watches

Bell & Ross’ watches are grouped into BR 01 Skull, BR 03 Auto, BR 03 Diver, BR 03 GMT, BR 03 Chrono, BR 03 Cyber, BR S Quartz, BR-X5, BR 05 Auto, BR 05 GMT, BR 05 Chrono, BR V2 Auto, BR V2 GMT, BR V2 Chrono, BR V3 Chrono, Cyber, Flight Instruments, BR-X1 Tourbillon and BR-X2 Tourbillon. Each reference of the respective family highlights its own design provenance, watchmaking values and mechanical excellence.

The expansive offerings of Bell & Ross are a testament to the brand’s broad repertoire. From vintage-inspired to contemporary, to high watchmaking, the brand has embraced ambition and risk taking, with creativity pivotal to its endeavours.

Creativity flows freely within the brand

Bell & Ross has pushed creativity and complexity to uncharted territory on numerous occasions. The brand’s manufacture movement can be found in a number of complex watches, notably the BR-X2 Tourbillon. Debuted in 2017, the exemplary square watch comprises two layers of sapphire crystal, sandwiching an ultra-slim self-winding tourbillon movement. It famously rewrote the form of diving watches with the iconoclastic BR 03 Diver, marked by the iterative square shape and debuted also in 2017. It fulfils the stringent ISO 6425 standard, proving that the watch is a bona fide diving watch first and foremost.

At the brand, innovation and ambition go hand in hand. In 2011, Bell & Ross forayed into the world of motorcycles by joining forces with Shaw Harley Davidson in 2011 to create the one-of-a-kind Bell & Ross Nescafe Racer. A harmony was struck with the centrepiece of the motorcycle consisting of the BR 01-92 wedged into the fuel tank. Bell & Ross renewed the partnership subsequently in 2014 with the B-Rocket coupled with the BR 03 90 B-Rocket and in 2023, the BR 03-94 BLACKTRACK inspired by the BT-06 motorcycle designed in collaboration with prolific designer Sacha Lakic.

Taking it to the circuit, Bell & Ross envisioned the future of automobiles. The Aero GT concept was viewed as a futuristic Gran Turismo. The sportscar drew inspiration from aeronautics, with its aerodynamic shape, silvery colour and high-tech materials condensed into the BR 03 collection presented in 2017.

Not only have fighter jets and vintage fighters precipitated aeronautical watches, Bell & Ross imagined its own aircraft too, with the ultra-modern propeller engine-powered single seater, the BR-Bird, conceptualised to race at the Reno Air Races.

BR 05 inaugurates urbane aesthetics

Bell & Ross penned a new chapter in 2019 with the premiere of the BR 05 collection. Carrying a contemporary and elegant flair, the circle within a square design underwent another evolution. A debonaire proportion combined with Bell & Ross’ precision in timekeeping and production, the sophisticated watch finds its rightful place in a cosmopolitan city.

Fused with the case to form a seamless unit, the bracelet is polished at various angles to elevate contours and volumes. It is further articulated with a mix of finishing and polishing techniques, as well as materials. It cements Bell & Ross as a versatile luxury watch brand and tastemaker that stays ahead of the curve.

Innovative materials come into the reckoning

The Vintage WWI Heure Sautante made public in 2015 was the first watch equipped with a jumping hour display and a power reserve indicator. It was offered in a choice of pink gold or platinum. The latter is a decadent material known for its desirability and density. A precious metal noted in watchmaking for being challenging to work with.

Another difficult material to mould into watch cases is sapphire. Bell & Ross has been offering sapphire cases as part of the Concept and the Haute Horlogerie families. Sapphire is revered for its extreme hardness and scratch resistance, which also make it laborious to cut and polish to perfection, a task that didn’t daunt Bell & Ross. These transparent limited editions lay bare the secrets behind each watch as the movement is exhibited, free of the usual constraints.

Signature models are also produced in ceramic. Hypoallergenic, scratch proof and corrosion resistant, the material is an exceptional choice for Bell & Ross’ watches aimed at professional users such as divers and military personnel who might encounter natural and workplace hazards.

More recently, Bell & Ross has included carbon in its portfolio. The BR-X5 Carbon Orange coalesces a 41mm carbon and titanium case with a cutting-edge manufacture movement designed by Kenissi. A preferred material in aerospace applications, the durability of carbon – exponentially tougher than stainless steel – belies its lightweight. It is thermally stable and water resistant. Moreover, the inimitable pattern formed during the manufacturing process makes the chronometer a unique piece.

The future is bright

In addition, Bell & Ross took a bold step towards redefining the look and feel of watch cases. The BR-X5 Green Lum is attired in LM3D, a luminous material developed by the brand, which combines epoxy quartz fibre for strength, a luminescent material and a resin as a binder. Unlike carbon fibre known for its woven pattern, epoxy quartz fibre is invisible to the naked eye and perfectly diffuses light. Therefore the resulting material, a fruition after several years of intense research and development, is able to maintain a uniform colour and brightness. It is equally as robust as carbon fibre while being 70% lighter than steel. The heart of the watch is a manufacture movement developed by Kenissi.

With LM3D’s extraordinary attributes and Bell & Ross’ technical know-how, the BR-X5 Green Lum is only the first of a series of probable permutations and combinations. Future releases may account for different shades, shapes and sizes. The year 2025 will also mark the 20th anniversary of the BR 01 collection. Worthy editions are likely in store to honour the milestone of the iconic watch.

More than a tool watch

Bell & Ross has demonstrated time and time again that it possesses the nous and aspiration for greater innovation. It has the passion to complement the know-how in its quest for watchmaking excellence. Accentuating an attractive blend of functionality and design, the brand’s watches set the benchmark in their respective categories in legibility, functionality, reliability and precision. The wide gamut affords a prospective buyer the luxury of choice. There is a befitting style to meet individual requirements.

By owning a Bell & Ross watch concomitantly inspired by the past and excited for the future, one is living vicariously through accomplished divers, pilots and racers, and the inerasable history and the bright possibilities they represent.

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