One of the biggest transformations in Patek Philippe’s watchmaking is how it’s embraced the use of colour in new designs. Here’s why it’s important.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 4910/1201R Twenty~4 in rose gold case and bracelet released this year features the embossed wave pattern dial of the Ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 497/200R-001, with over 50 layers of translucent aubergine lacquer to create the incredible depth and interplay of light.
When Patek Philippe released the Ref. 4910/1201R at Watches and Wonders in Geneva with a new, vivid purple dial coupled with a stunning texture, it marked the peak of a trend within Patek Philippe that started 20 years ago in 2004. Back then, Patek Philippe released another quartz timepiece, the Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5067A in six colour options that ranged from white to khaki, persimmon, and plum. It was the era of bold fashion and two executives at Patek Philippe chose the Aquanaut Luce to reflect that spirit.
Up until the 1920s, the dials of most timepieces were white or silvered. On occasion, there would be a black or rose gold dial. The exceptions were Rare Handcraft timepieces applying artistic crafts such as enamelling or wood marquetry on the dial. Fine and high watchmakers such as Patek Philippe took even longer to move away from using only black, silver or white dials; for the Genevan watchmaker, the first coloured dial appeared in 1968 with the Golden Ellipse’s introduction.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 3548 Golden Ellipse was the first serially produced model to have a coloured dial, in royal blue with a sunburst finish on a solid gold dial.
The blue sunburst solid gold dial was distinct, enhanced further by the minimalist and modernist design of the watch. Following this, the addition of sports watch lines led Patek Philippe to add a cool blue dial in the Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A with its iconic grooved pattern. In 1982, a new tropical brown dial colour was debuted in the Golden Ellipse Ref. 3738 but it was only much later that brown dials would appear in other lines.
The use of fresh colours gave the Aquanaut Luce a fun and fashionable identity, distinct from the diving-centric Aquanaut that it emerged from. The colourful releases were clearly memorable both within and outside of Patek Philippe circles, for in 2021, when Patek Philippe gave the Aquanaut Luce a slight refresh in size and design, the khaki-coloured model from 2004 enjoyed a rebirth as the Ref. 5267/200A.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5267/200A-011 Aquanaut Luce from 2021 has its origins in the first Aquanaut Luce release in 2004.
Many of the new dial colours have premiered in the Complications and Ladies’ collections. It is a trend within the company that has accelerated under Mr. Thierry Stern’s leadership. Here are some of the most striking.
The Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930G-011 limited-edition release for the 2019 Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore marks the first time red was used for a world time dial.
Only five years ago Patek Philippe released five special edition timepieces for the opening of the Watch Art Grand Exhibition showcase at Marina Bay Sands Theatre. The event coincided with the 200th anniversary of the Sir Stamford Raffles’ founding of Singapore. One highlight was the Ref. 5930G-011 World Time Chronograph was equally lauded.
The watch offers two iconic Patek Philippe complications – the flyback chronograph and world time complication – with a handcrafted guilloché dial with a circular pattern originating from the centre. On the dial, the minute track and Greenwich time are marked in red, with a black city ring that names Singapore among the 24 time zones. The inner dial with its guilloché pattern is coloured red with a gradient effect, blending into the city ring’s colour at the edges.
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5271/12P-010 has a red lacquered dial with a black gradient rim, to match the baguette-cut rubies set on the bezel, lugs, and clasp.
Today, just one reference still features a red dial – the gemset Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5271/12P-010 with a red lacquered dial that deepens to black at the edge. This reference has a total of 80 baguette-cut rubies set on the bezel, lugs and clasp. There’s also a single solitaire diamond set at the bottom of the case to distinguish the platinum case from white gold.
The olive green sunburst dial of the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Ref. 7300/1200A-011 gave designers a new set of colours to experiment with.
Apart from the khaki green Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5067A-001, green is a relatively new addition to Patek Philippe’s dial variations. The first instance of green, in particular the olive green seen in models such as the Ref. 7130R-014 World Time and Ref. 5204G-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, appeared on the Twenty~4 Automatic in 2018. The Twenty~4 Automatic introduced several different design elements to the collection, starting with the use of the dentelle technique that’s exclusive to Patek Philippe. By setting gemstones on two staggered rows, it enhances their radiance.
The olive green sunburst dial can now be found across a number of Patek Philippe’s timepieces including the Ref. 5204G-001 which combines two prized complications from the Genevan watchmaker – the split-seconds chronograph and the perpetual calendar. The use of the gradient effect on the dial differentiates it from the Twenty~4.
The new ladies’ watch also debuted the Calibre 26-330 S C, which has an impressively slim profile at 3.30mm in thickness with a full-sized gold rotor. Intended to succeed the Calibre 324, the movement is used today across many of Patek Philippe’s calendar models as well as the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time.
The same movement (with the addition of a date window) was used in the 2021 release of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Ref. 5711/1A-014 with olive green dial, and the more glamorous diamond-set version of that watch, the Ref. 5711/1300-011. Even though they were only introduced for a brief period, the interest in both references showed how that particular shade of green appealed across genders and ages.
The limited-edition Patek Philippe Nautilus with Tiffany Blue dial Ref. 5711/1A-018 celebrates their longstanding partnership with one of the most striking dial colours ever seen from Patek Philippe.
At the end of 2021, Patek Philippe gave Ref. 5711 a final swan song in the form of the limited-edition Ref. 5711/1A-018. The 170-piece watch also celebrated the 170th anniversary of the retail partnership between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co., which goes beyond standard watch retail as the dials are double-signed, something that’s highly coveted by collectors. The reference further set a record as one of the most expensive Patek Philippe watches ever sold at auction.
The Patek Philippe Ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 4997/200R-001 debuted the rich purple tone that can now be found among several different lines.
While teal is unlikely to appear within Patek Philippe’s catalogues, purple has made a royal entrance in recent years. Starting with the Ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 4997/200R-001, the vivid aubergine shade has quickly been added to the Ladies’ Nautilus and Twenty~4 lines. What appears to be a simple application of colour is hardly so; it takes over 50 applications of a translucent lacquer by hand on each dial that’s embossed with a wave pattern, to create the vibrancy and depth of colour seen.
Patek Philippe isn’t just adding colours and variations to see what sticks. Each new introduction is the result of much study, and to consider which options align with its philosophy of eternal elegance. That includes the first dial colour it ever added: blue. Today, the deep midnight blue is reserved for more formal timepieces and designs; while casually elegant references such as the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G-001 have a new blue-gray dial that is a lovely bridge between the staple white and black dials. It’s an incredibly versatile colour that manages to cross warm and cool tones, allowing it to be used with different precious metals.
The new blue-gray colour that Patek Philippe has introduced on its dials bridges warm and cool tones and looks equally good when encased in white or rose gold. Shown here are the Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce Travel Time, Refs. 5164G-001 and 5269R-001 respectively.
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