A new milestone in Chopard L.U.C complications: An high complication calibre paired with a reshaped aesthetic
Chopard Manufacture is laying a new milestone in its history with L.U.C Calibre 96.36-L, an original high complication movement pairing a flying tourbillon and a perpetual calendar with large date display. The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual timepiece reflects the finest expertise and innovation cultivated by the Maison’s workshops. It features a case in ethical 18-carat yellow gold measuring 40.5 millimetres in diameter, with a slender, bassiné profile. This aesthetic refinement extends to the highly legible Forest Green dial in hand-guilloché gold and an ingenious interchangeable strap system treats the watch to a variety of styles. While the movement’s accuracy is chronometer-certified, the high-quality finishing of this exceptional model has also earned it Poinçon de Genève recognition.
L.U.C Calibre 96.36-L: an high complication movement
The art of Chopard Manufacture consists in appropriating complications by enriching them with its distinctive innovative vision, as well as assembling them in new and ingenious ways. The history of Chopard Manufacture since 1996 has been dotted with landmark innovative models, the most recent of which is L.U.C Calibre 96.36-L.
In 2013, the L.U.C Perpetual T model, Chopard’s first tourbillon with perpetual calendar, made its mark on the history of the Manufacture. Six years later, it was followed by the no less innovative L.U.C Flying T Twin, constituting the Manufacture’s first timepiece with flying tourbillon and automatic winding, as well as being the only one in its category to receive both Poinçon de Genève and chronometer certification.
Today, the L.U.C 96.36-L movement represents the culmination of these innovations. Illustrating the Manufacture’s constant quest to excel, it unites the finest previous feats in an unprecedented technical development involving no fewer than 319 components. Thanks to the micro-rotor and Chopard Twin technology’s two stacked barrels, the 6 mm-thick movement associates the lightness of a flying tourbillon with all the gear trains enabling this model to provide day of the week and large date displays, as well as a month indication, requiring no manual adjustments to keep track of variable month lengths and leap years. The perpetual calendar will need only a one-day correction on March 1st, 2100 – not because of a fault in the mechanism, but due to the Gregorian calendar which stipulates that centuries are leap years only if divisible by 400. The movement’s accuracy also ensures instantaneous display of all the perpetual calendar indications.
Distinguished by the absence of an upper bridge, the flying tourbillon of the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual timepiece enables unobstructed views. Equipped with a stop-second function enabling the time to be set to the exact second, the tourbillon enhances the movement’s accuracy. This precision is chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), as is the case for all L.U.C calibres with a seconds indication – in this instance located on the tourbillon carriage. A demonstration of technical virtuosity, the tourbillon – invented in the 18th century to eliminate the influence of the Earth’s gravity and isochronous forces – is one of the most sophisticated horological complications. Chopard’s flying tourbillon stems from several years of research and development, testifying to the Manufacture’s maturity.
Finally, thanks to the energy accumulated in the two stacked barrels using Chopard Twin technology, the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual timepiece is endowed with a 65-hour power reserve.
The Poinçon de Genève: a guarantee of excellence
The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual model testifies to the finest craftsmanship cultivated by Chopard. Several hundred made-to-measure tools are involved in reworking and hand-trimming each rough-cut component, before manually decorating it using traditional skills – even if it is destined to remain concealed beneath a bridge. Each creation is successively enhanced by chamfering, satin-brushing, polishing, circular graining and Côtes de Genève patterns, followed by individual testing and hand assembly in the workshops. The prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, to which Chopard has been loyal for many years, attests to this degree of artisanal skill and meticulous care. This aesthetic and technical certification is validated by an independent body and governed by a law instated by the Canton of Geneva. It imposes peerless criteria of excellence encompassing the case and movement, including their structure, appearance and precision. Since the launch of its first flying tourbillon calibre in 2019, all Chopard watch models equipped with it – from the L.U.C Flying T Twin model to the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon – have earned this prestigious label of excellence.
A slimmer, reshaped case
The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is the first high complication L.U.C model to benefit from the flying tourbillon and comes with a new case featuring a subtly refined design whose sophistication is on a par with the movement finishing. At 40.5 millimetres in diameter and 11.6 millimetres thick, it fits smoothly on any wrist. The case features a bassine shape, meaning its base is narrower than its domed, polished bezel. Reflecting craftsmanship inspired by the pocket watches that emerged from Louis-Ulysse Chopard’s creative heritage in the 19th century, this distinctive profile creates an impressive sense of aesthetic refinement.
This new case with its vertical satin-brushed sides is paired with a curved, fluted crown that is not only elegant but also easy to handle. The slightly domed sapphire crystal perfectly matches the curves of the bezel, giving the watch a rounded, harmonious profile. Another sign of fine craftsmanship is that the lugs are made separately before being welded to the case to ensure a perfect aesthetic result. Crafted in ethical gold, this reshaped case makes the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual a timeless object for watchmaking connoisseurs and paves the way for the aesthetics of future timepieces in the collection.
The hand-guilloché dial: a strong commitment to craftsmanship
Since the first L.U.C 1860 timepiece was presented in 1997, dials for L.U.C models have perpetuated a legacy reflecting the purest watchmaking tradition, in which the art of guilloché has become a collection signature. Having teetered on the brink of extinction during the 1990s, this age-old craft has survived thanks to the efforts of Manufactures such as Chopard, which still owns a few rare guilloché lathes with which specialised artisans guide their burins over fine metal surfaces to adorn them with repeating patterns accurate to a tenth of a millimetre.
Featuring a deep Forest Green shade, the dial of this new creation is itself naturally guilloché with a sunburst pattern radiating from the flying tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock, the focal point of this timepiece.
A concentric snailed pattern runs around the dial periphery, below the minutes track. The hands and hour-markers are in yellow gold. The Chopard perpetual calendar highlights the most frequently requested indication – the date – through a broad twin aperture at 12 o’clock, while the two gold-rimmed perpetual calendar counters are also snailed, with the exception of the central section of one located at 9 o’clock. The latter is dedicated to the 24-hour indicator, which also serves as a day/night display. The upper part (day) bears a sunburst pattern symbolising the presence of the Sun, while the lower section is engraved with a horizontal motif evoking the serenity of the night. Ultimately, the arrangement of each indication is both aesthetically appealing and perfectly legible.
Interchangeable straps: a combination for every occasion
For the first time in the Chopard collections, this new model is equipped with an interchangeable strap system enabling its owner to vary styles and adapt to different outfits, occasions and activities. This extremely convenient new system is designed for quick, tool-free swap-outs via the case middle and clasp. The aim is to guarantee the user-friendliness and wearer comfort that are core to the Chopard philosophy. In addition to the two alligator leather and calfskin straps supplied with the timepiece, each Chopard boutique will offer an assortment of additional straps in a variety of textures and colours.
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