Explore the enduring legacy and innovative vision of Breguet watches through an exclusive interview with Emmanuel Breguet, the guardian of his family’s legendary craftsmanship.
Emmanuel Breguet, Vice President and Head of Patrimony of historic watchmaker Breguet, is the seventh-generation descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet, whose innovations laid the cornerstone for modern horology. Bearing the torch of his illustrious forebear, Emmanuel continues to merge historical reverence with contemporary innovation, ensuring the Breguet name remains synonymous with excellence in watchmaking. His role not only involves curating the rich heritage of the brand but also guiding its future, a testament to his deep personal connection to his family’s legacy.
The name Breguet resonates across the centuries as a beacon of pioneering craftsmanship and aesthetic finesse in the world of luxury watches. Since its inception in 1775, the Breguet brand has introduced a plethora of innovations that have profoundly shaped the industry—be it the invention of the tourbillon, the introduction of the first wristwatch, or the development of the iconic Breguet hands and guilloché dials. These contributions underscore Breguet’s pivotal role in elevating watchmaking from mere timekeeping to an art form, admired and coveted by collectors and connoisseurs around the globe.
In a revealing interview, Emmanuel shares his profound insights on the fusion of historical craftsmanship and contemporary innovation at Breguet. With a focus on the brand’s distinctive design DNA and its ongoing relevance in the luxury watch market, he articulates how the venerable watch house continues to shape the future of horology.
Breguet Has A Storied History, With Roots Going Back To The Late 18th Century. Can You Describe How The Company’s History Influences Its Current Watch Designs?
Emmanuel Breguet: It is an honour for me to be in charge of the historical patrimony of the brand. And I can say this without being pretentious: You do not know the history of watchmaking if you do not know the history of Breguet, and this is a historical fact. The history of Breguet is full of innovation from the aesthetic point of view, from the design point of view, and from a technical point of view. Today, we are still influenced by our history. If you look at any classically-styled watches, they are obviously influenced by Breguet – guilloche dials were produced by Breguet, white enamel or our signature hands… The heritage of Breguet is shared by all the watchmakers.
How Do You Then Balance Innovation With Tradition, Although Innovation In And Of Itself Is Very Much A Cornerstone Of Breguet?
Emmanuel Breguet: It is difficult to be well-balanced. We made the choice to maintain the traditional Breguet codes because we consider them to be timeless, and it would be a mistake to erase these historical records. But this is for design. For technical aspects, we are inspired by Breguet but we continue to innovate, to search for new solutions so our watches have a traditional look, but are not so traditional inside. It is not interesting to copy the past; it is interesting to be inspired by it and to search in the archive to find historical facts that we can then use. We have enough inspiration to last for many years, too! (laughs). We keep the tradition, but we continue to create new ideas.”
Breguet Chronograph N ° 7211 produced in 1950s
Breguet Type 20
Having A Direct Lineage To Abraham-Louis Breguet, How Do You Personally View The Legacy And Future Of Breguet Within The Watchmaking Industry?
Emmanuel Breguet: We know the history of Abraham Louis Breguet better and better, thanks to some historians and also, my own investigations. If you take the example of the tourbillon, which is a Breguet invention – he made about 40 in his lifetime, and later, the company only made one or two every 10 years until about the 60s. Then Breguet put the tourbillon in a wristwatch, and now, all the brands do it too, whether they are new maisons or independent ones of heritage watchmakers. To be recognised as a true watchmaker, you must put a tourbillon in your collection. I sometimes think that Abraham, if he knew all this, would not be able to believe it! (laughs)
Breguet Classique Tourbilllon 3358
In This Day And Age, What Is The Real Significance Of A Tourbillon?
Emmanuel Breguet: Beauty. It is no more interesting in terms of accuracy. A regular watch is enough! But a tourbillon is special! I did some research regarding the meaning of the word tourbillon as it was used two centuries ago. The meaning was solar system, the regularity of the world. Breguet’s idea was to put the whole world in a pocket watch, which is so poetic! Tourbillons are more than a technical system; they symbolised the miniaturisation of the world for the philosophers in Europe during the 18th century. For me, tourbillons are so important today because of their beauty, and the way they capture the whole universe. This is my interpretation.
Breguet Marine Tourbilllon 5577
How Does Breguet Serve The Needs Of An Increasingly Younger Audience?
Emmanuel Breguet: The younger generation is very interested in Breguet’s history, its authenticity, and they are eager to learn more about the founder and the company’s historical context. It is very special that we can prove our history and share our heritage with them through our magazine, for example, and through communicating with our clients. The younger generation like Breguet’s subtle style – this is a low-profile brand, discreet. Oversized watches were in fashion 15 years ago, but now, a more elegant profile is preferred. Breguet has always been like this, and it is a key point in attracting new buyers. But what the younger generation also like is that Breguet was not just a watchmaker, but he was a businessman! What I find fascinating is to explain how Breguet became so well known in England, Spain, Russia, and so many other countries – how he achieved this network. We are one of the oldest luxury brands to have such an established network, going as far back as 1810.
Oh, This Is Fascinating!
Emmanuel Breguet: As a historian, it is my role to read all the archived documents we have and understand the context – but my personal passion has been to demonstrate how Breguet was such a commercial success. It is a success unique to watch history, owing to Abraham’s multiple talents – he was an artist, but he was an entrepreneur! It was so fascinating to find out exactly how Abraham did this, how he met Marie Antoinette, or the Czar of Russia. We know this all happened, but the how is what I am so interested in. I am discovering new things all the time. Recently, I read an old manuscript and found out that an oil once used in Breguet watches was made from olives!
What Are Some Of The Challenges Of Being The Head Of Patrimony For A Brand Like Breguet?
Emmanuel Breguet: It is a miracle that we have so much! The main part is the company archives, which includes ledgers of all the watches ever produced since the end of the 18th century. It is interesting to know that we make physical prints of each watch that is made in the manufacture, which we choose to do even though everything is digitalised these days. Of course, we have clouds too, but the printed ones also exist in two sets – one in Paris, and one in Switzerland. If you buy a Breguet today, you will have access to your records. We do deal with a lot of queries about authenticity, as well, as there are many counterfeit Breguet watches made in the past, and in large numbers.
Breguet Paris Museum
Archive book
Do You Have A Favourite Breguet Watch?
Emmanuel Breguet: I love the Classique collection, especially ones with off-center dials – it is very much to my personal taste. I do also love the Tradition family, where the movement is visible from the front of the watch. The Marine is important because Breguet has a long relationship with the French navy, for whom we have made many interesting pieces. We have continued the tradition of using Roman numerals in this family, which is a nice thing I believe. I also love souscription watches!
What Breguet Models Are In Your Own Personal Watch Collection?
Emmanuel Breguet: I have a very small one, honestly. I joined the company a very long time after my family sold it. I have had the chance to buy back many Breguet models at auctions for the museum, with the objective of demonstrating the evolution of the brand. But for me… my first Breguet watch was actually a gift from my father on the occasion of my wedding. It was a vintage pocket watch, and I think he knew where my life would lead me one day.
What Advice Would You Give Collectors, Both Experienced And Novice, Who Want To Get Into Breguet?
Emmanuel Breguet: This brand is a whole universe. It is why we have so many collections! To start a collection, I would say pick up a Classique or a Tradition, and then pick up a Marine. The Reine de Naples is also an important one to have because it is the first watch designed to be worn on the wrist. If you are really passionate and collector, my suggestion is to buy also one antique Breguet – but you must be closely attuned to the auction houses – and you will really understand the brand. Then, you can perfectly understand Breguet. Between those two watches, you will have the history of watchmaking.
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