In 2025, Patek Philippe will celebrate an important milestone: the centenary of the moon phase complication for a wristwatch.
The moon phase complication often appeared in pocket watches, table clocks, or on larger-sized movements. That was until 1925, when Patek Philippe created its first-ever wristwatch, the Ref. 97 975, housed in yellow gold and using a perpetual calendar movement originally developed for a woman’s pendant watch.
The Ref. 97 975 was the first perpetual calendar wristwatch ever made with the pocket watch movement rotated to position the crown along the wrist. That meant the moon phase display, shown with a large gold disc on a blue background within the white Grand Feu enamel dial, appeared at 3 o’clock, when most brands featured it at the top or bottom of their dials.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 97 975 was the first wristwatch to feature a perpetual calendar and moon phase complication. It’s easy to see where the Ref. 5160/500R gets its design and looks from, although the novelty has a different style and appeal.
The moon has always captured our imagination, especially when events like the recent partial lunar eclipse occurs. Its appearance on the wristwatch is even more charming. The Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts Ref. 5160/500R is one such example, incorporating some of the Genevan manufacture’s protected crafts into its design. Across the entire case, a master engraver has detailed volutes and foliage into the case band, bezel, lugs, and back.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5160/500R’s beautiful silver opaline gold dial takes on a champagne hue with a smooth, matte finish. The elaborate engraving of the fleur-de-lis complements the volutes and patterns on the case.
The silver opaline gold dial in a matte, shot-blasted finish is elaborated with an engraving of the fleur-de-lis, a symbol of purity and virtue, that integrates the moon phase display. Around it, the Arabic hour indexes and hands are presented in oxidised white gold, with a retrograde date display around the central engraving and windowed displays for the day, month, and leap year. While the Ref. 5160/500R espouses a classic craft and design, it does so with subtly modern features that still shows respect for classic timekeeping.
When it comes to dial textures and techniques, Patek Philippe’s complication models for ladies stand out. The Refs. 4947 and 4948 in particular combine gemsetting and uniquely finished dials with the watchmaker’s patented annual calendar complication that includes a large moon phase display.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 4947G-010 draws inspiration for its dial texture from the delicate fabric of shantung silk, a cloth that is prized for its unique texture.
With the Ref. 4947G-010, Patek Philippe explores textile textures with vertical and horizontal satin brushing. The silvery dial mimics the warp and wefts of shantung silk, right down to its gentle glossy sheen.
The Patek Philippe ref. 4947/1A-001 takes this textured treatment further in a lively blue colour that reveals hints of the opaline gold dial throughout the pattern.
The Ref. 4947/1A-001 expresses it in greater detail, adding a midnight blue colour to the silver dial in varying tones. The steel reference of this model has an egalitarian and unisex look, thanks to the integrated five-link bracelet that’s fully polished to match the Calatrava-style case. The three counters on the dial that indicate the day, month, and moon phases are in a matching blue to the shantung dial, but with a sunburst finish instead.
With an almost rosy iridescence within the Balinese mother-of-pearl dial, the Patek Philippe Ref. 4948R-001 offers an even more glamorous interpretation of the annual calendar timepiece.
Meanwhile, the Ref. 4948 elevates the Ref. 4947 by cladding the entire case in rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling over 340. The mother-of-pearl dials have been carefully selected, polished and engraved to enhance their iridescence, producing a cloud-like visual effect that exudes radiance from all angles. Patek Philippe has taken extra effort in matching the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl with the case material. The white gold model emits a cool blue-silver sheen, and in rose gold, warmer tones of red and purple glide over the dial.
But if you’re of the opinion that the moon phase display casts an old-world, classic glow on the watch, the same complication in a more genteel style offers a totally different look. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5396G-017 presents the same annual calendar complication in a modern Calatrava case with quiet elegance. The refined, pure lines of the case are reflected on the dial, where a minute track of white gold beads is paired with faceted baguette-cut diamond hour markers.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5396G-017 has a sophisticated and elegant bearing thanks to the Calatrava case, and baguette-cut diamond markers. The use of precise shapes with minimal fuss gives the watch a modern classic identity.
The digital-style annual calendar uses three discs to indicate the date, day and month through compact windows under the logo and at the 6 o’clock position. A large moon phase display intersects the date window, and a 24-hour indicator is displayed with the phases of the moon. The contrast of shapes (round and angular) applies to the precisely machined and angular hands. The graduated blue sunburst dial offers a strong backdrop against the pristine white and polished white gold details on the dial stand out.
The same combination in the Nautilus case gives off an even more robust identity. The familiar case shape and bezel of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5726/1A-014 with its stainless steel clamshell construction presents an industrial, rugged version of the annual calendar with moon phase and 24-hour indication, a look that’s enhanced by the grooved linear pattern on the blue gradient dial.
Clad in stainless steel with a clamshell case and bracelet, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5726/1A-014 gives the annual calendar with moon phases a sturdy, rugged and tireless look.
Strong angular and faceted hour indexes are filled with SuperLumiNova, as well as the rounded baton hands. Gently rounded edges and angles add nuances to the Nautilus’ design.
The noblest execution of the passage of the Moon, however, is on Patek Philippe’s Ref. 6104R-001, or if you prefer a platinum version without gemsetting, the Ref. 6102P-001. Here, the phases of the moon are presented relative to the Milky Way, along which the ecliptic runs. On the rotating dial, a black sapphire disc establishes the backdrop of the starry sky that’s speckled with gold. Another black sapphire disc is used for the moon phase display, with a large transparent sapphire disc that reveals the part of the sky that’s visible.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 6104R-001 envisions the moon phase in reality as the Solar System travels around the Milky Way, across the vastness of outer space.
Against this breathtaking sea of stars, the inner bezel offers a minute track indication as well as the analogue date display via a red-arced hand, surrounded by a ring of baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel in the Ref. 6104R-001. The stark black-and-white monochromatic look of the Ref. 6104R gets a touch of colour in the Ref. 6102P-001, with metallised blue sapphire discs and matching colours on the inner bezel. A streak of yellow gold dust is used on the blue sapphire, with a yellow gold moon phase display.
The vivid blue colour on the dial of Patek Philippe’s Ref. 6102P-001 is achieved through a metallisation technique which enables the sapphire crystal disc to be coated through electroplating.
As the wristwatch moon phase complication turns 100, Patek Philippe continues to find new ways to bring out its luminous beauty.
To learn more about this calendrical complication, head to a Patek Philippe boutique near you or get in touch with one of our sales representatives today.
