Fashion fades, but style endures.
Luxury watch design has seen a remarkable evolution, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation. Initially, luxury watches were prized for their utility and craftsmanship, often featuring precious metal cases. Over time, both the aesthetic and functional elements of timepieces evolved in response to cultural and technological shifts. The 20th century, in particular, witnessed significant design changes, from the sleek Art Deco styles of the 1920s to the bold, geometric designs of the 1970s.
The Quartz Crisis of the 1970s reshaped watchmaking, with many brands adopting quartz movements. However, mechanical watches regained popularity in the 1990s as vintage timepieces attracted renewed interest.
Between 2010 and 2020, watchmakers leaned towards minimalist designs and retro reissues, catering to those seeking understated elegance and timeless appeal. The trend for smaller, more refined pieces marked a return to the roots of watchmaking, while the rising demand for vintage models from brands like Cartier and TAG Heuer spurred a revival of classic designs. Many historic luxury watchmakers continue to blend timeless elegance with modern trends, ensuring their continued relevance in the ever-evolving world of luxury watches.
Here, we highlight six highly recognisable timepieces that have evolved over the years – some for more than a century – while maintaining their enduring appeal.
Cartier Tank Française
Launched in 1996, the Cartier Tank Française, introduced a more angular and robust design to the iconic Tank collection. Over the years, subtle evolutions have refined the model, with the latest version showcasing seamless bracelet links, vertically brushed dials, and a wider yet inset crown. These updates maintain the timeless essence of the Tank while adapting it for modern tastes and cementing its role as a versatile symbol of luxury.
In its latest 2023 update, the Cartier Tank Française introduces a sleeker bracelet with seamless, cuff-like links that blend into the case for a more contemporary aesthetic. The inset crown is wider, and retains the signature sapphire cabochon, enhancing its streamlined look. The dial features a modern vertical brushed finish, replacing the older guilloché pattern, with a ‘frame’ enclosing the minute tracks. While the large model is powered by a self-winding movement, this medium steel model is flanked by 26 brilliant-cut diamonds, adding a luxurious touch.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
The Cartier Tank, introduced in 1917, has undergone several evolutions, with the Tank Louis Cartier, first released in 1922, becoming one of the most popular and timeless iterations. Initially inspired by the Renault FT-17 tanks from World War I, the original Tank design featured clean lines and a rectangular case, embodying Cartier’s minimalist and elegant vision. The Tank Louis Cartier softened the edges of the original, elongating the case and creating a sleeker, more integrated dial, setting the design standard for Art Deco-inspired watches.
Over the decades, this model retained key elements like the Roman numeral dials, sword-shaped hands, and a beaded sapphire cabochon crown. The Tank Louis Cartier is considered a luxury dress watch, traditionally crafted in precious metals such as rose or yellow gold, with hand-wound mechanical movements in larger sizes and quartz options in smaller variants. With its timeless blend of tradition and modernity, the Tank Louis Cartier continues to be an enduring symbol of sophistication. This particular large model pairs a luxurious yellow gold case with a red lacquered-effect dial, complemented by burgundy alligator straps. It is powered by a hand-wound movement.
Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas
Initially introduced in the 1940s, Bvlgari’s Serpenti Tubogas watch, inspired by ancient Roman mythology, captured attention with its unique snake-like bracelet. The Tubogas technique, which uses flexible metal to form a seamless coil, became synonymous with the collection. This iconic timepiece has since evolved into a blend of luxury, tradition, and innovation.
In the 1960s and 1970s, the Serpenti Tubogas gained global fame, worn by style icons like Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra. Its bold, sensual design mirrored the era’s embrace of extravagance. Bvlgari continued to innovate, incorporating new materials and techniques to ensure the watch remained relevant. Last year, the brand introduced a groundbreaking technique allowing gems to be set on the coiled Tubogas bracelet, a first in the Serpenti’s history.
Symbolising perpetual change, Bvlgari continuously updates its Serpenti offerings, such as this bi-coloured single coil creation that combines steel and rose gold with a green lacquer dial.
Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori
In recent years, the introduction of the Serpenti Seduttori model into Bvlgari’s extensive jewellery watch repertoire marks a significant evolution. This creation embraces high-tech materials such as ceramic, giving the watch a sleek, contemporary edge while retaining its heritage. Ceramics offers exceptional durability, scratch resistance, and a lightweight feel, aligning with current preferences for innovative, practical luxury. In this particular model, which combines gleaming black ceramic with luxurious rose gold accents, the Serpenti receives a modern update that will be appreciated for decades to come.
This combination of cutting-edge materials and timeless design has allowed the Serpenti watch to appeal to both traditional watch enthusiasts and modern consumers. Bvlgari’s ability to adapt while preserving the watch’s iconic status ensures its enduring relevance in the ever-evolving luxury market.
TAG Heuer Monaco
The TAG Heuer Monaco, introduced in 1969, marked a revolutionary step in watchmaking, combining automatic movement with chronograph functionality. Designed to appeal to motorsport enthusiasts, its distinctive square case and unique dial layout quickly caught attention, though it initially struggled in sales until Steve McQueen famously sported it in the film Le Mans.
Back then, powered by the groundbreaking Cal. 11 movement, the Monaco was notable for its self-winding mechanism integrated with chronograph gears, a feat made possible by the innovative micro-rotor. Over the decades, the Monaco’s design evolved, with TAG Heuer issuing various limited editions to commemorate its legacy. Each decade’s edition features unique dial designs and finishes, celebrating the Monaco’s rich history while maintaining its iconic status.
The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Dark Blue is a 2024 take on the iconic square design, featuring a 39mm titanium case with a black DLC coating. Its sandblasted finish enhances the sleek, futuristic aesthetic, while the flowing curves soften its bold look. The open-worked dial, blending black, dark blue, white, and yellow tones, adds a sporty yet relaxed vibe. This model, with its contemporary feel and thoughtful design elements, brilliantly honors the Monaco’s heritage while looking toward the future.
Breitling Navitimer GMT 41
Introduced in 1952, Breitling’s Navitimer is a pioneering pilot’s chronograph and one of the most iconic Swiss watches. Initially designed for professional pilots, it quickly gained popularity among the general public. The Navitimer’s standout feature is its slide rule bezel, which allows pilots to make calculations such as fuel consumption, distance, and flight time—revolutionary tools at the time.
The first model, the Navitimer Ref. 806, utilized the Venus 178 movement and featured a three-register dial along with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) logo. By 1969, Breitling introduced the first automatic chronograph, the Chrono-Matic, and expanded the line to include quartz versions during the 1970s’ Quartz Crisis. In the 1980s, Breitling reintroduced classic mechanical versions, such as the Ref. 81600 “Old Navitimer,” appealing to enthusiasts nostalgic for vintage designs. The 2009 launch of the Caliber B01, Breitling’s first in-house movement, marked a major milestone, setting new standards in precision and performance. Since 2018, the Navitimer has seen a modern revival, including the introduction of the Aviator 8 series and a refined version in 2022.
The latest Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 from 2024, for example, features a GMT function that offers a cleaner look compared to its chronograph-equipped predecessors, reducing the need for additional sub-dials and pushers. At 41mm, it is more compact, catering to a new audience while retaining the quintessential elements of the classic Navitimer aesthetic.
