After its debut last year, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 opened on 27 March, and closed on 2 April with record figures, including 43,000 unique visitors (doubled from 2022) over the whole week, from 125 nationalities. Close to 50 brands presented their impressive line-up of novelties, many of which were featured on our Instagram account during the week of the exhibition.
Here, we have handpicked our “Hero models”, all of which created significant buzz during this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023. Which ones are your favourite?
Cartier Privé Tank Normale
For the seventh series of its Privé collection, Cartier puts its focus on the Tank Normale. The new Privé Tank Normale was a highly anticipated model, thanks to its simplicity and classic design, as well as the fact that the very first Tank model that was created by Louis Cartier in 1917 (the word ‘Normale’ was supposedly added after the Tank Louis Cartier was launched in 1922) has been missing from Cartier’s line-up for a long time.
This new version is available in six distinct designs, with the most talked-about being braceleted versions in yellow gold and platinum.
The dial of the Privé Tank Normale features the collection’s signature Roman numerals and the signature railroad minute track. Its case has been scaled up to meet modern preferences and measures 32.6 mm x 25.7 mm. The caseback of the Privé Normale is brushed, and a blue sapphire cabochon is set on the crown of the yellow gold model, while the platinum version has one in ruby.
Another exciting element would be the bracelet. This is the first time a timepiece from the Privé collection has been offered on a bracelet.
The 7-link bracelet features a seamless design with no visible pushers at the closure. It is orchestrated by the manual-winding Cal. 070 MC movement. 100 pieces each of the yellow gold and platinum bracelet models have been made.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
Chopard’s well-received Alpine Eagle collection welcomes its newest member of the family -the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS.
Like the other steel models in the series, the XPS is made from Lucent Steel A223, an innovative and proprietary steel alloy made from 85% recycled material. This alloy is prized for its anti-allergenic qualities, brilliance produced by the recasting process, and its responsible origins.
The case has a familiar shape with distinguishing flanks, a bezel with eight functioning screws, an engraved crown, and its dial is textured with a radiating pattern in “Monte Rosa Pink”. For this new extra flat model, the sides of the bezel have been slightly trimmed to balance the proportions in line with the slim and stylish profile of the watch. The thickness of the case measures just 8mm, allowing it to sit comfortably even on a slender wrist despite its 41mm diameter.
Powering the watch is an automatic L.U.C 96.40-L movement with central hours and minutes, small seconds, and a stop-second function for precise time-setting. Two stacked barrels guarantee a 65-hour power reserve. The calibre is also decorated with Côtes de Genève on the bridges, with other components finished to satisfy the Poinçon de Genève requirements. It is also COSC-certified.
Zenith Pilot Automatic
The Zenith Pilot Automatic is a new generation of pilot watches redesigned from scratch. It revisits the collection’s signature aesthetic codes in a unique silhouette and is full of subtle details.
It comes in a 40mm case in either stainless steel or black ceramic and features a new design with a flat-top bezel on top of a rounded case. The steel version has vertically satin-brushed surfaces with polished chamfers, while the black ceramic version is entirely micro-blasted. The oversized crown, a defining feature of Pilot watches, has been given a more modern and angular form.
The black opaline dial, with its horizontal grooves, is inspired by the corrugated fuselage of an aircraft and offers a sense of depth. The oversized luminescent Arabic numerals take on a more modern font and are applied as metal markers filled with white Super-LumiNova. The dial is signed “Pilot,” as Zenith remains the first and only brand to hold the rights to mark its dials with the term.
The watch is powered by the El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement, visible through the sapphire display back. The movement delivers a power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound. Its winding mechanism’s open and blackened oscillating weight recalls the dashboard instrument, which informs the pilot of the aircraft’s orientation relative to the Earth’s horizon.
The steel model is fitted with the same black cordura-effect rubber strap, while its second strap is in brown calfskin leather. The black ceramic version is delivered on a black cordura-effect rubber strap with a newly designed folding clasp developed specifically for the collection and a more utilitarian khaki cordura-effect rubber strap. The straps are easily interchangeable using a quick-change mechanism.
Come discover the best of contemporary horology at our boutiques. Check out the watch collections at Cortina Watch today.
