A must-have for every collector, Cartier watches are more than just timepieces. Each collection boasts a fascinating story and unique design features, making them worthy of close scrutiny. Born in different eras, the six iconic collections – Santos, Tank, Ballon Bleu, Pasha, Baignoire, and Panthère – boast diverse styles that have captivated the world and led the fashion for generations. From “jeweler of kings to king of jewelers,” Cartier’s transformation into a master of watch design is unveiled in the origins of these six collections.

 

Santos：The Birth of the World’s First Wristwatch

Regarding the genesis of the world’s first wristwatch, horological history is replete with divergent narratives. However, in 1904, aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont’s successful flight mission while sporting the Santos de Cartier ushered in a new era in timekeeping. Witnessing this historic moment marked the transition from pocket watches to wristwatches, freeing up hands not only for piloting aircraft but also for strolling hand in hand along the Seine River. The Cartier Santos not only stands as the world’s first universally acknowledged wristwatch but also as the first pilot’s watch and square watch in history.

The square-shaped design of the Santos watch draws inspiration from Santos Dumont’s flights around the Eiffel Tower. Curved adornments grace the corners, while streamlined lugs extend both upwards and downwards, blending strength with gentleness to imbue the adventurous pilot’s watch with an air of sophistication. Particularly noteworthy are the eight screws adorning the square bezel, enhancing symmetry and detail while evoking images of the Eiffel Tower and airplane rivets. This innovative concept, ahead of its time, resonates even more in the contemporary era of steel watches, accentuating the avant-garde industrial design aesthetic.

Over the past century, the Santos series has branched out into various sizes and styles. For instance, in 1978, it pioneered the trend of bimetal watches by combining stainless steel and gold, creating a wave of two-tone wristwatches. In 2018, further innovations led to the development of the QuickSwitch interchangeability system. and the SmartLink adjustment system, allowing for the effortless swapping of straps without the need for any tools. The timeless style, which dates back more than a century, is unrivalled in the fashion industry.

 

Tank: Sweeping Through the Fashion World Like an Armored Brigade

Following the success of the Santos collection in 1904, the Tank collection, inspired by the land forces, made its debut in 1917. At that time, Europe was deeply entrenched in the shadow of World War I, and the British invention of the tank in 1916 had a decisive impact, turning the tide of the conflict. This technological weapon that altered human history became the inspiration for Cartier’s Tank series. Its square case resembles a top-down view of a tank, with vertical lines extending from both sides to the upper and lower lugs, symbolizing tank treads. Its design appears deceptively simple yet it pioneered the novel concept of integrating the case and lugs, making the watch structure more robust and comfortable to wear.

Influenced by the Art Deco movement of the 1920s, the Cartier Tank series integrated various geometric structures, giving rise to classic styles such as the Tank Chinoise, Tank Anglaise, Tank Française, and Tank Américaine. For instance, the Tank Chinoise combines elements of Chinese architectural porticos in its design. Additionally, models like the curved Tank Cintrée, the angled Tank Asymétrique, and variations such as the Tank Solo, Tank MC, and Tank Must, among others, offer over 200 different styles, creating a dazzling array of choices. With designs that stand the test of time, the Tank series has attracted admiration from celebrities and luminaries including former U.S. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, Princess Diana of England, iconic actress Elizabeth Taylor, and renowned artist Andy Warhol, making it a symbol of luxury and elegance.

 

Ballon Bleu: Embarking on Dreams of Flight

Compared to the centuries-old Santos and Tank, the Ballon Bleu series, born in 2007, is akin to a graceful young girl just turning 17 or 18. Yet, Ballon Bleu rose to fame almost overnight, becoming one of the most prominent names in the world of watches from its inception. Like other classics under the Cartier collection, Ballon Bleu boasts a poetic origin story, drawing inspiration from the world’s first aircraft: the blue hot air balloon crafted by the Montgolfier brothers of France in 1783. Its design may appear similar to a typical round case at first glance, but it exudes a completely different temperament and style.

In contrast to conventional round timepieces, the Ballon Bleu boasts a subtly domed front and back, accentuated by smooth, tapering curves that evoke the ethereal grace of a UFO, seemingly defying gravity as it gracefully adorns the wrist. Its hallmark feature lies in the harmonious interplay of a larger circle encompassing a smaller one, with the crown adorned by a convex sapphire delicately nestled within the openwork bridge at the 3 o’clock position of the case. This exquisite design evokes the imagery of a majestic hot air balloon, brimming with boundless aspirations.

The watch exudes an air of romance and elegance, akin to a vessel embarking on a journey laden with dreams. The sapphire crown, reminiscent of a soaring balloon, symbolizes the lofty aspirations and adventures that lie ahead. It comes as no surprise that the Ballon Bleu swiftly captured the hearts of enthusiasts upon its debut, solidifying its status as one of Cartier’s most sought-after timepieces.

 

Pasha: A Waterproof Timepiece Fit for Royalty

The iconic Pasha de Cartier, which rose to prominence in the 1980s, has its origins rooted in the 1930s when a distinguished North African nobleman, the Pasha of Marrakech, commissioned Cartier to craft a timepiece capable of withstanding water during swimming excursions. At a juncture when waterproof watch technology was still nascent, Cartier rose to the challenge, meeting the noble Pasha’s requirements with aplomb. The earliest iterations of the Pasha boasted square cases, but by 1943, they had evolved into the archetype of the contemporary Pasha, characterized by a circular case, prominent Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock, a grid-like metal grille adorning the dial, a screw-down crown cap, and the signature sapphire cabochon crown – all instantly recognizable hallmarks. Upon its reintroduction in 1985, embellished with intricate details, it swiftly enamored fashionable women.

The Pasha‘s design ethos is boldly expressive, epitomized by models such as the Pasha Grille with its detachable grid grille and the Pasha Skeleton, seamlessly integrating the 3-6-9-12 Arabic numeral hour markers into the skeletonized movement framework, showcasing the boundless potential of Pasha’s style articulation. The 2020 iteration of the Pasha also incorporates the QuickSwitch interchangeability system, facilitating effortless strap changes and enhancing the watch’s versatility for everyday wear.

 

Baignoire: A Leisurely Time Inspired by French Bathtubs

Cartier’s boundless creativity has always had a unique way of transforming ordinary concepts into fresh interpretations that resonate with the brand’s essence. The name “Baignoire,” borrowed from the French term for “bathtub,” seamlessly infuses the graceful contours of a French tub into the watch’s design. In 1912, the initial Baignoire timepiece emerged, boasting a rounded rectangular silhouette.

Following the 1960s, influenced by the vibrant spirit of “Swinging London,” the Baignoire’s design took on a more adventurous tone. However, it wasn’t until the 1970s that the Baignoire series truly came into its own, adopting a fundamental framework with softly curved oval cases and Roman numeral hour markers, while also incorporating intricate jewelry craftsmanship. The gentle elliptical lines of the Baignoire evoke a sense of pure French elegance, as though beckoning one to luxuriate in a timeless bath of sheer delight.

Panthère: Tracing the Footprints of the Jaguar

Since the inception of Cartier’s women’s watches adorned with the jaguar in 1914, this untamed and enigmatic creature has become the brand’s most alluring emblem. From opulent jewelry to refined leather goods and fragrances, the graceful silhouette of the jaguar pervades every facet of Cartier’s creations. Within Cartier’s watch series, the jaguar morphs into various forms, at times manifesting as intricate jewelry craftsmanship and at others merging with sophisticated functionalities, yielding a plethora of mesmerizing artistic creations.

In 1983, Cartier unveiled the Panthère de Cartier series, eschewing literal jaguar features while retaining the square case reminiscent of the Santos and the quintessential five-link bracelet. At first glance, the watch may seem disconnected from its feline inspiration. Yet, its bracelet design draws inspiration from the agile footprints of the jaguar, capturing its grace and abstract essence. The aim was to craft a unisex timepiece suitable for both lavish soirées and daily wear. Just like the jaguar, with its agile and stealthy movements, disappearing without a trace, each rendition of the watch exudes equal allure.

Having explored Cartier’s six major watch series, here’s a concise overview of the distinct styles of Cartier timepieces. We hope you discover the Cartier watch that perfectly complements your style and personality.

Series	Birth Year	Features

Santos	1904	The world’s first wristwatch / Iconic square silhouette
Tank	1917	Clean lines, beloved by celebrities
Ballon Bleu	2007	Round design infused with contemporary elegance
Pasha	1985	Unique design with exotic flair
Baignoire	1973	Everlasting allure of French fashion sophistication
Panthère	1983	Confidence and allure embodied with poise

 

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