The relentless pursuit of excellence has perpetuated the enduring allure of haute horlogerie. Beyond the evolution of mechanical structures and the infinite variations in design, the exploration of diverse materials has enriched the depth of aesthetic expression. From contemporary interpretations of ancient crafts to conquering technical summits and embracing sustainable practices for the future, the following six horological masterpieces showcase extraordinary material applications. They create a discerning attitude and stylistic statement for wearers, evident in even the finest details.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde in Platinum
Launched in 1996, the Toric collection is Parmigiani Fleurier‘s founding work. Adhering to the “golden ratio” aesthetic principle, it incorporates fluted decorations and circular engravings inspired by ancient Greek Doric columns, establishing a minimalist yet refined style. In 2024, the collection underwent a transformation. The newly unveiled Toric three-hand watch embodies a serene brilliance, featuring a 40.6mm case in 950 platinum paired with a ceramic gray dial. The redesigned overall shape appears more supple and delicate while retaining the classic fluted design.
The celadon gray dial is the highlight of this piece—understated yet unforgettable, evoking the elegant charm of Ru ware, reminiscent of “the color of the sky after rain when clouds part.” While Ru ware is prized for its color and crackle glaze beauty, Parmigiani employs special techniques to create a unique texture. The gold dial edge is treated with chevé and beveling techniques, extending into a gentle, receding curve. The entire dial surface is then coated with a special mixture composed of talcum powder, crushed sea salt, and silver, combined with mineral-free water to form a uniform paste. This is then meticulously polished with a special brush, creating a regular, soft matte effect.
OMEGA Constellation
Meteorite dial designs have garnered significant attention from collectors in recent years. The appeal of this extraterrestrial material lies not only in its rarity, comparable to precious gems, and its unique Widmanstätten pattern but also in the fact that each meteorite tells a languid tale of interstellar travel. Typically, meteorite dials present in varying shades of rocky gray metallic tones. However, in 2024, OMEGA pioneered new possibilities for meteorite dials with a series of Constellation watches. Through PVD and electroplating color treatment technologies, OMEGA bestowed meteorite dials with unprecedented multicolored appearances.
The first wave of new Constellation meteorite dial creations includes not only the original meteorite color but also industry-first purple, golden yellow, and blue meteorite faces. These are mounted in four case diameters—25, 28, 29, and 41mm—with each size offering five variations, totaling 20 new meteorite dial models debuting simultaneously. The Muonionalusta meteorite chosen for OMEGA’s Constellation series is currently the oldest known meteorite, falling on the Scandinavian Peninsula about one million years ago and first discovered by meteorite hunters in 1906 in a village north of the Arctic Circle.
Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum
Tantalum is an extremely rare presence in the watchmaking realm. Dense and exceptionally hard, with a melting point around 3000°C—significantly higher than stainless steel (1400°C) and gold (1064°C)—it is notoriously difficult to machine or surface finish. Very few watches have ever been crafted from tantalum. The debut of H. Moser & Cie.‘s Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel Watch adds a rare example to this exclusive list. After two years of research, H. Moser & Cie. achieved a breakthrough in polishing tantalum case surfaces—previously, tantalum watch cases were sandblasted or satin-finished to overcome the metal’s hardness and machining challenges.
The watch case has a deeper hue than typical stainless-steel cases due to tantalum forming a dense oxide film upon contact with air, providing corrosion resistance and resulting in a dark gray tone with a slight blue tint. This unique case color perfectly contrasts with the profound “Abyss Blue” enamel dial. On a gold base plate that appears as if hammered, four pigments are applied and fired twelve times to create a smoky gradient effect in grand feu enamel.
Franck Muller Vanguard Damas
The barrel-shaped case of Franck Muller’s Vanguard series, with its graceful curve that follows the wrist, has traditionally been rendered in stainless steel or carbon fiber to express its robust and dynamic charm. The emergence of the Damas watch brings a strikingly new aesthetic to Vanguard’s iconic silhouette. Damascus steel, known for its distinctive patterns and extreme hardness, originates from Damascus, the capital of Syria in the Middle East. Building on this ancient metallurgical craft, Franck Muller developed an internationally patented alloy using austenitic stainless steel and non-magnetic stainless steel.
This alloy boasts high impact resistance and inherent antimagnetic properties due to its non-magnetic components, while creating a vivid texture distinctly different from traditional Damascus steel patterns. Both the case and dial are cut from solid blocks of Damascus steel. Through Franck Muller‘s proprietary process, which involves immersion in an acidic solution, the striped pattern emerges naturally, imbuing Vanguard‘s grand contours with a mysteriously robust aura. The appliqué numeral hour markers on the Damascus steel dial feature white outlines with black numerals, creating a distinctive achromatic style with clear readability.
Panerai Luminor Due Prada Re-Nylon
Panerai is one of the pioneering luxury watchmakers actively pursuing sustainable development. The brand continuously researches and adopts eco-friendly recycled materials. The Submersible eLAB-ID™ watch, launched in 2021, exemplifies this commitment, with 98.6% of its total weight derived from materials incorporating high percentages of recycled content. The Luminor Due Prada Re-Nylon Watch – PAM01425, introduced in 2023, realizes the sustainability ethos in another form. It combines Luminor Due’s classic aesthetics with straps designed by Prada, creating a sleek and modern feel. All four watch models feature small seconds and date display functions.
Nylon fabric has long been an essential symbol of Prada’s brand DNA, continuously interpreting modern lifestyle with refined quality and practical aesthetics for over 40 years. The birth of Prada Re-Nylon regenerated nylon material marks a new chapter in this classic style’s evolution. This material is woven from ECONYL® regenerated nylon yarn, sourced from fishing nets, discarded nylon, carpets, and industrial waste. Prada designed four strap styles for this collaboration: the two 42mm watches are paired with iron gray and navy-blue straps, while the 38mm models offer snow pink and cornflower gray options. All straps are embossed with Prada Re-Nylon and Panerai logos and feature a quick-release system for easy strap changes.
Zenith DEFY Extreme E Second Edition
Zenith, a brand supporting sustainable development, has been collaborating with like-minded partners to realize this vision in recent years. Examples include purchasing surplus fabrics from luxury fashion brands through Nona Source to make watch straps, and creating the Zenith DEFY Extreme E Second Edition watch for the third season of the Extreme E electric off-road racing championship. The “Electric Green” strap, colored in Extreme E’s official representative hue, is a Velcro strap upgraded and recycled from Continental CrossContact tires used in the first season of racing. The 45mm case is crafted from carbon fiber, making it the lightest 1/100th of a second chronograph to date. It houses the El Primero 9004 automatic movement, equipped with two escapements—one for timekeeping and another for chronograph functions.
Extreme E is an FIA-sanctioned international off-road racing series using standardized electric SUVs. Races are held in remote locations worldwide, chosen to raise awareness about various aspects of climate change. Through this, Extreme E implements its “Legacy Programme,” providing social and environmental support to these locations.
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