The recent Watches and Wonders Geneva saw a record 54 brands reveal their latest horological innovations. The highly anticipated event catered to the press and retailers from April 9 to 12, while the public had the opportunity to immerse themselves in the city’s largest luxury timepiece haven from April 13 to 15. Blending tradition with cutting-edge design, the world’s leading watchmakers and trailblazing independents showcased their finest and most exquisite creations for the year.

In this article, we spotlight the pinnacle of horological innovation and artistry, while unveiling the trends that are set to shape the future of watchmaking. This year’s highlights include ground-breaking advances in material engineering, evocative designs that push aesthetic boundaries, and mechanical ingenuity that continues to challenge and redefine the very concept of timekeeping.

Cartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time

The French maison continues the journey of pushing boundaries and challenging perceptions of time with the bold Santos de Cartier Dual Time watch. Paying homage to the legacy of pioneering Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont and his feats of conquering distance, the watch allows the wearer to track two different time zones simultaneously with ease.

Boasting a large case size of 40.2mm by 47.5mm, the steel model features a mechanical movement with automatic winding. Featuring tapered, ergonomic lines and meticulous attention to detail, it exudes a rugged elegance with rhodium-finished luminescent hands, a distinctive seven-sided crown, and a grey counter at 6 o’clock displaying a second adjustable time zone.

Practicality meets luxury with the watch’s interchangeable bracelet options, available in steel or leather, thanks to Cartier‘s patented QuickSwitch system. Meanwhile, a SmartLink size adjustment system ensures a perfect fit every time as it enables the wearer to effortlessly adjust the watch to the nearest link without the need for tools.

 

Chopard Happy Sport

Featuring the signature display of diamonds that dance freely within the dial as the wearer moves, Chopard’s Happy Sport has been a symbol of empowerment and confidence for the modern woman since its launch in 1993. Evolving with each season, the collection has been reinvented continuously with a vibrant array of colours, embodying a fun-loving spirit and joie de vivre.

Framed by a diamond-paved bezel, the latest limited series of 250 pieces is enhanced by an enchanting ballet of diamonds and the latest addition to the choreography: aquamarines. The new stone’s blue shade dictates the colour theme of the watch, beautifully complementing the silver-toned, guilloché-patterned dial. Reflecting a carefree spirit, the colour is thoughtfully echoed in the gem-set crown, while the fresh hue extends to the glossy alligator leather strap to infuse the timepiece with a joyful touch.

This timepiece is meticulously crafted, respecting the golden ratio to achieve perfect harmony in its 33mm case made from Chopard’s proprietary Lucent Steel. Driving the new iteration is the Chopard 09.01-C self-winding movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

In line with Chopard’s commitment to sustainable luxury, the Happy Sport case is crafted from Lucent Steel, an alloy made from at least 80% recycled material. This responsible choice enhances the brilliance and durability of the timepiece, while reflecting the maison’s dedication to ethical craftsmanship. Since 2023, Chopard has exclusively utilised Lucent Steel for all its steel timepieces, reinforcing its commitment to environmental responsibility.

 

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

A horological masterpiece that speaks to the soul of innovation and minimalist beauty, this bold timepiece boasts a one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring that is masterfully skeletonised to give the illusion of suspension within the Streamliner’s 40mm case.

Following H. Moser & Cie.’s first foray into the skeleton watch domain with the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton in 2022, this latest reference continues to define the maison’s unique aesthetic. Its exquisite transparency reveals the inner workings of the watch mechanism, including the openworked rotor and hollowed barrel. The attention to symmetry and minimalist finishes, such as anthracite main plates and drawn strokes on the bridges, further accentuate the watch’s contemporary appeal.

Housed in a steel cushion case that’s water-resistant to 120 metres, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton’s design maintains a focus on symmetry and balance. Flaunting organic forms and fluid lines, its integrated bracelet hugs the curves of the wrist beautifully, while gold-plated indices and hands with Globolight inserts ensure optimal readability in any lighting condition.

Powering this timepiece is the spectacular HMC 814 skeleton movement with a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie’s sister company Precision Engineering AG, this innovative design enhances accuracy and isochronism.

 

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night

Continuing its tradition of horological excellence, IWC unveils the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901), showcasing a sleek 18-carat Armor Gold® case, hands, gold-plated and gold appliques. The innovative Armor Gold® boasts enhanced durability and resistance compared to traditional 5N gold, thanks to its refined microstructure. The dial, in Obsidian black and meticulously polished, exudes depth and contrast, while the watch is complemented by a Santoni-crafted curved black alligator leather strap, known for its exceptional quality.

At the heart of the timepiece lies the flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, a pinnacle of watchmaking complexity. Expertly assembled and fine-tuned by IWC Schaffhausen’s master watchmakers, this intricate mechanism minimizes the effects of gravity on the watch’s oscillating system, thus enhancing its precision.

A standout feature at 9 o’clock is the 24-hour indication, represented by a miniature globe symbolizing day and night. Rotating once every 24 hours, the globe showcases a dark and bright side, providing a captivating visual representation of the current time of day. This innovative day and night concept, conceived by former watchmaker trainee Loris Spitzer, underscores IWC’s commitment to fostering curiosity and innovation.

The day and night indication is seamlessly integrated into the newly developed IWC-manufactured 81925 calibre. With its hand-wound movement and absence of an oscillating mass, the intricate globe is visible from both the front and back. The gold-plated base plate, partially skeletonized, offers a clear view of the barrel and other components, while circular Geneva stripes adorn the meticulously finished movement, visible through the sapphire glass case back.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

In 2021, the Swiss manufacture embarked on a quest for absolute aesthetic perfection with the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor by stripping away all superfluous elements and focusing solely on the essentials. With tight, integrated lines and superlative finishes, this collection encapsulated Parmigiani Fleurier‘s identity of understated elegance and refined discretion.Continuing this clean, minimalist aesthetic is the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, the collection’s newest addition. It’s a creation that resonates with those who appreciate the essence of horology, where functionality and chromatic coherence converge in exceptional craftsmanship. A modern reinterpretation of watchmaking classicism, forgoing the date window underscores the maison’s commitment to essential clarity, while honouring the demands of watchmaking purists.

Flaunting a Golden Siena dial with elegant moiré effects, the 40mm steel timepiece with a platinum bezel celebrates the subtle nuances of nature and earth’s rich colour palette. Adding a touch of classic haute horlogerie is a Parmigiani Fleurier signature, the intricate Grain d’Orge guilloché dial, which features a beautiful micro texture that beckons admirers to take a closer look.The calibre PF703, boasting an automatic winding via a micro-rotor, is a marvel of engineering at only 3.07mm thin. Employed by the most prestigious of watchmakers, this complex component is executed in platinum that affords it both heft and fluid motion, while being seamlessly incorporated within the movement’s slender profile. The thoughtful yet sophisticated design reduces the overall thickness of the timepiece, allowing it to sit just 7.8mm high upon the wrist for unparalleled comfort and a sleek aesthetic.

 

Panerai Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio

Inspired by the thrilling America’s Cup races set to unfold in Barcelona from August to October 2024, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio emerges as a pioneering timepiece making its debut during the Watches and Wonders 2024 week.

This pioneering watch, designated as PAM01507, proudly showcases the innovative Super-LumiNova® X2 on its indices and hour hand, boasting a luminosity 10% brighter than its predecessor after 180 minutes in darkness. Crafted with a 42mm Grade 5 titanium case, renowned for its remarkable lightness and strength, this timepiece pays homage to Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team’s innovative spirit.

Water-resistant up to 50 bar (~500 meters), the PAM01507 has been rigorously tested, surpassing the brand’s stringent standards with ease. At the core of this exceptional watch lies the automatic P.900/GMT24H movement, known for its reliability and impressive 3-day power reserve. With a diameter of 12½ lignes (28mm) and a thickness of only 5.46mm, this caliber seamlessly integrates expansive functionality within its streamlined proportions.

Echoing the Luna Rossa sailing team’s sails, the GMT hand adorns a blue sun-brushed dial and flange, proudly displaying the Luna Rossa sail decal. The watch features a unidirectional rotating titanium bezel with a blue matt ceramic disk, renowned for its scratch resistance.

For added versatility and style, the watch offers two strap options. The first bi-material strap boasts a striking red stripe with the Luna Rossa inscription against a blue backdrop, while the second rubber strap exudes a uniform blue tone. This blend of resilience and aesthetics reflects the robust and sporty nature of the timepiece.

 

Zenith Defy Extreme Diver

Inspired by Defy’s long line of dive watches since 1969, the all-new Defy Extreme Diver is refreshed with a contemporary edge for today’s adventurers. Forged in titanium, its 42.5mm case combines lightweight durability with exceptional resistance to the corrosive effects of seawater. Designed for saturation diving, it incorporates a helium escape valve and is framed by a fixed dodecagonal bezel, above which sits a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel with luminescent markings for clarity even in the dark depths of the ocean.

Echoing the robustness of its predecessor, the Defy A3648 from 1969, the Defy Extreme Diver boasts a water resistance of 600 metres, or 1,969 feet – a hat tip to the original’s debut year. Complying with ISO standards for professional dive watches, this timepiece stands up to magnetic fields and shocks to ensure optimal performance in the harshest of environments.

The watch is offered in black or blue sunburst metallic dials with matching ceramic bezels and they retain the modern Defy collection’s signature geometric motif of an engraved four-pointed star. As functionality and visibility are key, the oversized hands and markers are layered with three pigments of X1 grade Super-LumiNova with light emissions in blue, green, and orange, which make it easy for the diver to distinguish between the hours, minutes, and seconds. Another safety feature are the titanium crown-guards that protect either side of the oversized screw-down crown.

At the heart of the Defy Extreme Diver is the El Primero 3620-SC automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre with 60 hours power reserve. Visible through a sapphire display back – an uncommon feature in diver’s watches – this movement features a paramagnetic escapement with key components in non-metallic silicon.

Completing the watch is an interchangeable titanium three-link bracelet, as well as two additional straps. The first is in FKM rubber with a Cordura-effect texture that matches the dial colour and features side vents to allow water to pass through. For more professional uses, the second is an extra-long fabric option made from recycled fish nets. Designed to be worn over a wetsuit, it has specific end-pieces to pass the single-piece strap through and under the case for a secure fit.

 

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